I don’t know what inspired it but I decided to try my hand at printing 3D prints. We had just watched Inside Out 2 and I found a model of Anger on Printables.
My first attempt used red filament and then I used some of Elijah’s acrylic paints with brushes. Never having done this before, I had no idea what I was doing. The end result was pretty rough. I hadn’t done anything to fix the layer lines in the print, the paints very thick, and the brushes were cheap/damaged. It turned out so badly that I wanted to try again. (And I just now noticed that I forgot to paint the mouth.)
For the second attempt, I took more time. I started by doing four or five layers of filler primer with endless sanding in between. I bought some new (but still cheap) acrylic paint and brushes. The new brushes and paint worked so much better than my first attempt, but I still lacked skill and I was never able to get a brush free appearance, but this was a significant improvement from the first attempt.
The red and the black colors hid the brush strokes pretty well but it’s very obvious on the white parts. Maybe next time I’ll have to get a basic air brush setup and give that a shot?
As I mentioned previously, our electricity rates are increasing, but our power company is also rolling out some interesting programs to help people save money and reduce load on the grid. I recently enrolled in one called “PSE Flex“.
There are multiple ways to enroll:
They send you a message before a “flex event” and ask you to reduce your power consumption. You get paid $1/kWh that you save and $15/year just for being in the program.
If you let them remotely adjust your smart thermostat, you will get $40/year.
If you let them control your EV charging, they will give you $0.50/kWh saved during Flex events.
If you have a battery storage system, you get $500/year if you let them use power from it during Flex events.
I signed us up for the first item and after one month of usage, I’m very happy to report that we’ve already saved the initial $25 sign up credit plus an additional $43.21! There were nine Flex events in those 30 days. I don’t know if that’s normal or if it was ramped up because of the very cold weather we had. Either way, that’s a pretty significant savings.
As someone who spends a lot of time with “big data” I immediately had questions when they said they would credit me for power that I didn’t use. How can you measure something that doesn’t happen? They obviously had to guess and I have two ideas about how they are guessing:
They look at how much power I used during the same timeframe in the days leading up to the event.
They look at how much power I used in the hour before and the hour after the event.
They’re probably doing some combo of this but from my experiments, the second one seems to be the stronger signal. And with a giant electricity storage device sitting in my garage (the Tesla), I can really take advantage of this. I make sure to charge the car for the hour before and the hour after the event and whenever I’ve done that, they’ve said that I’ve saved roughly the kWh that I would have used if I had kept charging that whole time.
In most places, you power is coming from a mix of powerplants. You can see where our power is coming from by looking at the Bonneville Power Authority charts: BPA Balancing Authority Load and Total VER. Most of our power comes from hydro. That green line is wind and solar. Coal/natural gas and nuclear are at almost exactly the same level.
I had a hard time understanding why we were having Flex events when we weren’t also having peak power consumption periods. While they probably do have Flex events to reduce peak power usage, there is another reason: it can be cheaper to pay you to $1 kWh to not use power than it is for PSE to BUY the power! There’s a great explanation of this scenario in a Reddit thread but as a very quick summary, the price that PSE pays per MW can fluctuate from $40/MWh on a normal day up to $2000! Those of us on the west coast can see minute by minute pricing on this website: California ISO Price Map
I’m sure the whole story is way more complicated than what I’ve understood so far, but for now, I’ll be very happy if I can keep saving $40/month on my power bill!
For our first Christmas as a married couple, Tyla and I decided we’d do “family gifts” instead of specific gifts for each other. This year it was tickets to see the Piano Guys when they come to Seattle, but that first year we decided to get a nice camera. I had some SLR experience from high school when I bought a Minolta 500si but that didn’t prove useful too long as the world moved from film to digital. I was interested in getting a modern dSLR so we dipped our toes in the water with a Canon T2i and the 18-55mm kit lens. I later added a 55-250mm f/4-5.6, a 50mm f/1.8, and a Tamron 28-75mm f/2.5. None of it was fancy or expensive but it helped me learn a lot more about where I was pushing the limits of the gear and where I just need to learn more.
The main roadblock with that T2i was the “crop sensor.” Lower end dSLR cameras have smaller sensors than the higher end full frame sensors. The full frame sensors have 2.6 large surface area than the crop (APS-C) sensors. The extra size is particularly beneficial in low light situations, so I used Elijah’s desire to play basketball again this year as a good excuse to upgrade.
I ended up getting a Canon R8 which is on the low end for Canon’s full frame camera bodies, but it also has the advantage of being the more modern mirrorless style camera. As the name implies, mirrorless cameras do away with the mirror which means the cameras can be lighter, smaller, and faster.
I bought just the body for the camera since my old lenses would be compatible and would be enough to get me started. With the change to mirrorless tech and the change in form factor, Canon introduced a new camera mount called RF lenses. These lenses are smaller, lighter, and have all the latest tech. But thankfully you can still use all the older EF lenses with an adapter. To complicate things a bit, both the EF and RF lenses have “-S” variants which were specifically made for crop sensor cameras. They technically work on full frame cameras but they’re typically cheaper build quality and will also produce vignetting on the bigger sensors. My 18-55mm and 55-250mm were EF-S lenses but my 50mm and 28-75mm were EF lenses since I had bought those hoping I would upgrade to a nicer camera body in the future.
So that’s a lot of text before I talk about actually using the camera. Honestly, it’s frustrating. I had tens of thousands of pictures under my belt with the T2i and I barely had to think about it. Now there’s a lot more futzing around for the setting I want, missing shots because it’s focusing on the wrong place, etc. I believe all of that is just a learning curve and I’ll end up ahead of where I was.
To help speed up some of that learning, I took the camera to Elijah’s multi-school competition last weekend. He was competing in a Lego building competition and Lego robotics. I took a lot of pictures and ended up with a few passable ones but nothing stellar. Mostly it was interesting to see how the camera behaved indoors with unpredictable kids and lots of stuff moving around as I tried to hold focus on the right spots. The camera does do some pretty amazing eye detection and focus tracking. It seems natural to post some images here but as I said, none of them really show off the capabilities of the camera. Here’s one which is nice except that Elijah’s back is to the camera.
That 28-75mm lens is my favorite and is generally the only one that was on my old camera unless I had some very specific reason to get out the ultra-fast 50mm lens for very shallow depth of field. That 28-75mm lens had enough reach to handle most situations I was in, but that zoom feels inadequate on the new R8 body. This is because the crop sensor camera bodies have an unavoidable 1.6x zoom compared to a full frame sensor. So on the T2i, that 75mm zoom behaved like a 120mm zoom. Now on the R8, I lose that which is great on the wider end of the zoom but not on the narrower. More on that in a future post.
I had been using a copy of Lightroom from back in the days when you could just buy the software and be done. That copy of Lightroom doesn’t work with the more modern RAW photo formats. Now Lightroom is a subscription model and I’m not willing to pay that much per month for something that I don’t even use every month. I hunted around through a lot of alternative software including darktable and RawTherapee. I’m sure those tools can do what I need but I’m not interested in devoting months of my life to learning their painful UIs. Corel PaintShop Pro was included for free with my camera and I figured I would just move to that but unfortunately, they don’t support photos from the R8 yet. If they do, I might switch to that. For now I’m using my existing copy of Adobe Photoshop Elements. The Organizer app lets me flip through all my shots, tag some specific ones, and then I can edit them in their native RAW format. I’m mainly adjusting white balance and making a few other small tweaks so it’s good enough. It’s a major downgrade from Lightroom but I wasn’t using most of what Lightroom offered anyway.
I’ll have mercy on you and stop rambling, but this has been a fun process to work through. I know I’m the weird dad at Elijah’s events who is walking around taking pictures of everything, but I love having the pictures when I’m done, and let’s be honest, I’d be the weird dad at the event even if I did have a camera in front of my face.
In the last post in the series, I gave an update on our Model Y’s efficiency and our continued progress towards having this car be cheaper than the gas car we would have purchased instead. Today I’m here to report on a bit of a change to those calculations. Our electricity price has increased by ~20% this year and next year they’ll go up again (~5-10%).
PSE prices are increasing because of state regulations which are requiring them to get rid of coal and natural gas plants. Voters want more wind and solar but not nuclear. This is being demanded at such a rapid rate that PSE needs to raise costs to cover the change.
This slows things down a bit, but the bigger factor in determining how much money we are saving is still the cost of gas. The change in electricity cost means that our electricity cost per mile* goes up from $0.034 to $0.041/mile. Our gas cost would currently be $0.19/mile. A gallon of gas going down by about $0.20 would be a bigger hit to our savings per mile than this electricity cost increase.
This price increase also led me to do a better job with the previous price increase that had happened in January of 2023. My old calculations had ignored the lower prices for the first half a year that we had the car. After improving the electricity cost changes in the model, we’re at $10,628 in fuel savings after 57,600 miles.
So while the cost increase is annoying, it doesn’t dramatically change the math. It does increase my desire to have solar panels on the house though. The math on that just doesn’t work out super well in the Seattle area though. It would be a neat feeling to generate my own power to fuel our car!
*Yes, I’m also factoring in service costs, depreciation, insurance, registration, etc in the total cost per mile. This post only focuses on the fuel costs.
Our bedroom furniture is a mishmash of stuff we had before we were married and while it still works fine, there’s not a lot of rhyme or reason to the setup. For example, somehow during those endless nights with Elijah as a baby, we ended up with a foldable TV tray table serving as Tyla’s nightstand. After ~11 years of this, I figured it was time to do something about it.
I landed on a set of plans from Wood Magazine since I find it significantly easier to work off existing plans than to build from scratch. I knew I wanted to build this out of walnut, but my first hurdle was the cost of the materials. The plans called for less than half a sheet of 3/4″ plywood and it needed to be good quality on both sides. A sheet of walnut plywood is not cheap and while I could theoretically buy half a sheet, the markup for having them only sell me a half almost makes it not worth it. I ended up buying a full sheet and made plans for what to do with the leftovers. (Stay tuned… hopefully that next project won’t take 11 years.)
The build itself was straightforward. The plans were ok but they’re very basic. There’s not much joinery. Everything is just a set of panels and pieces that get combined with biscuits. I was ok with the simpler build, but I wasn’t crazy about the biscuits. They’re great and I use them on various projects, but it felt like the glue up would be very complicated since the pieces could still slide laterally. I ended up doing everything with dowels instead and that worked out very well. I was able to dry assemble everything and then the glue-up was straightforward. But before the glue-up, I prefinished everything with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Oil Based Topcoat in semi-gloss.
In keeping with the nature of the simple design, the drawer just sits in the opening, and it is a bit of a loose fit. It’s fine for a nightstand but that could be an area for improvement if you’re using the same plans.
I dream of replacing all the furniture in our house with stuff I’ve made, but at this rate I think I’d have to outlive Methusaleh.
I wasn’t expecting to be surprised by a website called Old Maps Online, but it has been fascinating to go back to again and again. There’s a slider at the bottom and you can scroll through time to see how various nations have changed their territories. I’m especially interested in Bible history and this has added a lot of information to my studies. Note that at the top of the page you can switch between having the map show regions, rulers, people, and key battles. You can also click on the map details to get related Wikipedia articles in a slide out panel.
Tesla usually just makes updates as they are available. They don’t wait for specific model years and the main things stay the same from year to year giving them good cost efficiency since most parts are compatible for many years in a row. However, they have been “refreshing” the cars in their lineup and the most recent one was the Model Y. This features larger changes with more incompatible parts between the two versions. Here are some exterior pictures of the new Model Y:
What do I think? I generally like it. I think the continuous front and rear headlights look nice. I think my biggest visual complaint is that the space below the rear taillight looks odd to me. I believe that the license plate mount is in the black part very low on the car. I have yet to spot one in person so we’ll see what real life looks like.
Feature improvements include a rear 8-inch touchscreen, better acoustic glass treatment, ventilated seats, an updated sound system, and new suspension. None of those are game changers but I’d be happy to have all of them.
I’m curious to see what this does for resale prices on the older models like ours in a couple years. I wonder how much of a difference there will be between the two models.
We aren’t itching to trade ours in for a new model though. The logic behind this purchase was largely about price efficiency so trading in the car now wouldn’t make sense. For those following along at home, we’re at 56,600 miles with $9089 in estimated fuel savings to date. Factoring in registration fees, service costs, estimated resale, etc, this puts us within a few pennies per mile as our old Beetle and still on track to beat our old Escape even ignoring inflation.
Alzheimer’s is a terrible disease. It is the 7th leading cause of death in the United States and it can have an outsized impact because of its sometimes long, slow progress. But what can you do to help fight against it? Enter Stall Catchers!
Every year at work we have some events that encourage more people to volunteer and this was one of the activities. It’s super easy and you can do it from your couch. The basic concept is that you look at a picture and determine if blood is flowing through vessels or getting stalled. Record your findings and move to the next one. There’s a point system and some leaderboards to encourage more participation, but that’s all there is to it. It’s simple to do in your spare time and it can dramatically speed up Alzheimer’s research.
You can read more about the science behind it or get started now at https://stallcatchers.com/. It took me a little while to get the hang of it but after a few minutes it was easy and I was chugging along making actual contributions to Alzheimer’s research!
When we visited my parents last summer, they were talking about the idea of having a pool thermometer that they could read from inside. There are various options on the market already but none of them met their criteria. I went home thinking this could be an interesting project and Christmas gift.
While I’ve done electronics projects before, I feel like very much of a newbie and there was a ton of learning involved in the project. My first challenge was learning how to read temperatures with a sensor that would be submerged all the time. Some research led me to the DS18B20 waterproof temperature sensor and I found a nice tutorial about using it with Arduino. I bought a couple official ones from Adafruit even though there are cheaper versions on Amazon. I only needed one for the project but I figured there was a good potential for me to screw one up. I had some ESP8266 boards left over from the LED panel project and that seemed like a good fit for this project. The boards are only a couple bucks and they have WiFi built in. With a little breadboard action, I was able to see the temperatures from the debugging output of the board.
The next step was to somehow publish that data. There are endless options, but to keep things simple, I started with Adafruit IO. It’s free for the small amount of data that I’d be sending and there were good tutorials about using it with the ESP8266 boards. That was quite simple to set up and before I knew it, I had a temperature sensor that sent data to a website!
I was going to explore ordering a custom breadboard and I did start down that path but I got a bit overwhelmed trying to find all my specific parts in the tool. My circuit wasn’t very complicated, so I ended up just using some perf board and manually soldering the components in place.
I wanted to make it easy to replace all the individual components so I ended up using connectors in quite a few places. I put a headphone jack on the end of the temperature probe and it plugs into a jack in the box. Then the box jack has another wire that plugs into the board.
Before I could figure out the box situation, I needed to figure out how to get power to it and that ended up taking me a lot of time. I landed on a power socket that’s meant for RVs connected to a buck converter to bring the 120v down to 5v. It was bulky but I made it easier by removing the long cable and plug on the power socket.
That just left the box and for that I opened up Fusion 360 to make a custom box that I would 3D print. It had all the holes in just the right places, the lid fits snugly, and all the screws are countersunk. The only problem was that the standoffs I built in for the ESP8266 were too tall/thin and they broke but ultimately it’s not a big deal.
I was nervous about whether the WiFi signal would reach from their pool, but thankfully they don’t have any competing WiFi traffic in the area and it worked fine! I got Dad set up with the development environment so he could make changes to the code, and he had an idea to make the probe wire much longer and keep the box in the pool house. There are endless possibilities since I’ve basically handed him a prototype and walked away, but hopefully it will work at least for a little while! I’m expecting it to take a couple more iterations to work through bugs and maybe we’ll build nicer software for it, but at this point, I’m kind of amazed that it actually worked.
It’s been over a year since I moved away from the dying Mint.com to Monarch Money to keep track of our finances. As with any tool like this, it takes a while to get everything hooked up and configured nicely, but now that it’s there, I really like it. My favorite part so far is the automated rules that do a great job of figuring out how I like to categorize our expenses. Now my periodic trips into the tool are more about reviewing the line items instead of manually categorizing them all. All that categorization is especially nice at the end of the year to look back and see where our money has been going and decide if that seems reasonable or not.
My only complaint is that it does not hook up to our Thrivent.com accounts, but I believe that’s a problem on Thrivent’s end. They were flaky with their connection to Mint as well.
If you don’t have a good way to keep track of where your money is going, I think you could do a lot worse than using Monarch Money. This isn’t a paid advertisement or anything, but I do have a referral code you can use that gets you a free month and then I get a month for free as well.
