Studio711.com – Ben Martens

Woodworking

Prayer Box

Church asked if I’d be willing to make a “prayer box” for church. The idea is that people can write down prayer requests on pieces of paper, put them in the box, and then Pastor will remember them in his prayers. There were no design requirements so I chatted about some ideas, got a thumbs up and I was off and running to Crosscut Hardwoods to pick up a nice hunk of 5/4 cherry.

I wanted to play with my box joint jig again so I decided to do box joints. Unfortunately my first attempt failed because I didn’t clamp it well and the box wasn’t square when I was done. Instead of waste all that nice cherry wood, I sawed off the joints, cut some new box joints and then glued it together. So the box ended up smaller than I intended but I think it worked ok.

For the lid, I wanted to try a panel raising bit. I picked one up from Rockler and carefully cut the profile on the lid. It’s a huge router bit so it’s a little scary to use. I slowed the router way down and nibbled at the cut until it was the depth that I needed. I added a very thin layer of wood on the bottom of the lid that perfectly fits inside the box. So when you put the lid on, it is always centered and won’t slide off.

To make the box a little more special, I took it to the laser cutter and etched the church logo into the front of it. Dad was here when I did that so it was a good excuse to show him the laser cutter. Thankfully my testing was spot on and the logo ended up perfectly centered.

Instead of having people lift off the top to insert their cards, I wanted to put a slot in the top. But why just do a straight slot? I made it a cross. This was trickier than I had intended and I had trouble centering the cuts. Thankfully I had started with a very small slot so I switched to a wider slot and was able to cover up my mistake.

The final step was making a base for it. That was just a chunk of cherry and I used the router to remove the bottom half of the board except for the four feet on the corner.

For the finish I used an equal mixture of boiled linseed oil, mineral oil and wipe on poly. Four coats of that with a scrub from a synthetic pad in between coats completed the project.

IMG_5093 IMG_5094

Bandsaw Box

As soon as I unpacked my bandsaw last summer, I was eager to try some projects that really made use of it’s unique capabilities. While I’ve done quite a bit of resawing, I still wanted to try to make a bandsaw box. Bandsaw boxes are generally curvy and they have drawers that perfectly fit the shape of the curve. If you’re a woodworker, it makes you stop and think “Wait… how did they do that?”

I received David Picciuto’s bandsaw book for Christmas and dug in. There are a series of builds and I started off at the beginning. I learned a lot while making the box and I know my next one will be better, but I still thought this would make a good gift for Mom. The wood is a combination of walnut and plywood. The interior is covered with black flocking. Happy Birthday, Mom!
bandsawbox1

bandsawbox2

How To Buy Wood

hardwoodsMy very first “fine woodworking” project was the jewelry box for Tyla. It took me forever to get started because I had no idea how you get the right wood. Up until that point, all of my projects had been made out of pine from Home Depot. All the plans I used were built around those common dimensions (1×4, 2×6, etc.) But the plans for the jewelry box called for some wood that was 1/4″ thick and some other pieces were 1/2″ or 3/4″. What was the best way to deal with that? I had a hard time figuring it out so I thought I’d write a “wood buying 101″ guide. I’m FAR from an expert but I do feel more comfortable buying wood now so I can share what I know.

When you buy hardwoods, you’re not buying the specific size pieces you’re going to use. You’re buying pieces are wider, thicker and longer than anything you’re going to need to cut. Then you have work to do when you get home to mill the wood to the right dimensions.

If you want to do this at home, you’re going to need at least one tool: a thickness planer. In my case, I knew a guy with one and I’d borrows his for projects. (Thanks Tim!) A thickness planer lets you reduce the thickness of your board. You have to do it in small passes but you can turn an entire board into sawdust if you so desire. It’s pretty wasteful to take a 3/4″ board and plane it down to 1/4” but it does work and that’s how I built the jewelry box.

The band saw was a big step up for me. Now I had the ability to saw a wood into halves (or even thirds) and then plane off much less wood to end up with two or three pices that were all thin.

And the third tool that you might consider is a jointer. A jointer helps you make one side completely flat and then make an adjacent side flat and 90 degeres to your first face. This is very important when dealing with very rough lumber.

Once you know what what tools you have to work with, then you are ready for a hardwood dealer. Home Depot isn’t a bad place to start. They sell very clean boards that are already jointed (perfectly 90 degree corners) so all you’d have to do is plane them down to the right thickness. You don’t get a wide variety, but the prices aren’t outrageously high.

To really blow your mind, check out a real hardwood dealer like Crosscut Hardwoods in Seattle. They have dozens of different hardwood spieces in a variety of sizes. You can also buy them in various stages of the milling process.

  • S4S will be the easiest to work with. That means “surfaced four sides.” It’s planed and jointed all the way around.
  • S3S is planed and jointed on three sides with line “wild” side.
  • S2S has been run thorugh a planer leaving you with two flat faces.

There are others but those are the basics. Then you need to decide on the thickness. You’ll see this listed as 4/4, 5/4, 6/4 or something like that. It’s pronounced “four quarter”, “five quarter”, etc and it’s fractions of an inch. So 4/4 is one inch thick. Note that it might not be EXACTLY one inch, especially if you’re buying wood that has been planed for you already.

The final thing you need to know is “board feet.” Prices will be listed per board foot. To calculate how many board feet a board is, multiple the thickness, width and lenght (all in inches) and divide by 144. A 1″ thick board that is 12″ square will be exactly 1 board foot. But don’t worry, you rarely have to do that math in the store. Each board usually has a number written on it in chalk and that is the number of board feet for that specific piece of wood. Multiple that number by the unit price and you’re all set.

You might not have to buy the entire board either. At Crosscut, it’s not uncommon to see 12 or 16′ boards. They will let you buy small pieces of the wood as long as you leave at least 8′ for them to sell. They will also crosscut the boards for you for transport, but all that cutting happens after you have paid your money.

Hopefully this demystifies hardwoods a bit. Happy woodworking!

Play Table

Over the past couple weeks, I’ve noticed Elijah playing on his own a lot more than he did before. The coffee table is one of his favorite play spots right now. I want to support these activities, but it’s hard to watch him smashing his cars around on the table. I’ve put plenty of my own scratches into the table, but if he keeps at this for a couple months, we’re going to have sawdust on top. I’ve been trying to figure out a good way to build him some sort of bigger play table anyway, and one day it dawned on me that I could solve both problems with one project.

I had a scrap piece of plywood that was big enough to cover the coffee table so I cut it to about the same size and trimmed it with some simple 1×4 pine. Using pine takes a little extra time because it pays to fill all the knots with wood filler, but it’s so cheap that it’s worth it for a project like this.

It only took a night or two to complete the build and then the painting began. Thankfully we had a semi-sunny weekend so I set up the saw horses in the driveway and started painting. I covered everything with a coat of Kilz primer. The rim was painted white and then, after taping, the inside was painted with four or five coats of green. I did all of it with spray paint and kept it smooth with some fine sanding every once in a while. I finished it off with a few coats of spray lacquer.

I had thought about painting a road onto the board and even laser cut some paper to use as a stencil. I didn’t use them though because I wasn’t confident that I could get a clean enough line using the templates.

The end product works perfectly. We already had some soft foam around the edges of the table. This slides over the top of that foam so nothing is touching the actual wood of the table.

Elijah spent a lot of time playing at that table the first day. I spent less than $4 on the project (not including leftover spray paint and lacquer) and used up some scraps. He can beat this up all he wants, and it’s really nice to be able to spread out his Legos without watching them spill off the edge of the table.

IMG_4404

Silverware Drawer Organizer

When we moved in, we bought some cheapo plastic silverware drawer organizers. They work ok, but they never really fit the drawers. I was looking for an excuse to use my new box joint jig and I decided the silverware drawer would be a good project.

I had walnut laying around and I wanted to use a nice hardwood for the box joints so this whole project got made out of walnut. It’s kind of ridiculous but it’s so much fun to work with walnut. I resawed it on the bandsaw and planed everything down to thickness. The Wixley digital planer gauge that I got for Christmas really worked nicely for the planing. I glued two pieces together to make the bottom, cut the box joints and then cut the dados for all the inserts.

My original plan was to glue it up but everything fit so nicely that I’m not going to glue the pieces in. This way we can easily remove them to clean the drawer out if we need to. I put on a bunch of coats of lacquer and then let it cure for a few days before sticking it in the drawer.

Is it overklil to have a solid walnut silverware drawer? Yep. But I love that everything fits so much nicer now and it was a good learning experience.

silverwaredrawer1 silverwaredrawer2

Incra Box Joint Jig Review

incraboxjointjigBox joints (sometimes called finger joints) are a handy and strong way to join two pieces of wood at a 90 degree angle. I’ve tried a couple times in the past to build my own box joint jig. It’s supposed to be easy but I could never get it to come out right. Finally I decided that I have more fun building stuff than building stuff to make stuff so I shelled out the money for the Incra Box Joint Jig.

It’s not something that is required to do the job, but it helps me get the job done faster and with nearly perfect results every time. It’s hard to screw this thing up, but plan to spend 30-60 minutes with the DVD to set it up out of the box. Now that I’ve got it all calibrated, I can whip out box joints of any size in just a few minutes. The design of the jig is also a little safer than a normal crosscut sled would be.

The only gotcha that I didn’t think of ahead of time is the size of my dado stack. Since I have a somewhat wimpy table saw, I opted for the smaller 6″ dado stack. Why make the motor spin all that extra metal around? That choice combined with this jig means that I can’t cut box joints into wood that is more than 1/2″ thick because the blade doesn’t come high enough out of the table. The 8″ dado stack would solve this problem, but truthfully I doubt it will bother me very often.

I’ll have some pictures of my first real box joint project in a post coming soon. For now, here’s a picture of my very first test. Obviously the fingers haven’t been trimmed down but you can see how nicely they fit together.

boxjointsample

2×4 Toy Trucks

toytrucksSteve from Woodworking For Mere Mortals, recently posted a project showing how to make a simple toy truck out of a 2×4. The end result is a truck that can have a pickup bed, camper, or trailer attached to it. Elijah has been asking to play with the semi truck that Grandpa Martens made me. That is special to me and I’d rather leave it on the shelf so I thought this project might be a quick way to get him his own truck.

I had Elijah come out in the garage a couple times to “help” me with the project so he could feel like it was partly his work too. We also made two sets of trucks so that we could give one to his friend Ike as a belated birthday present.

My DIY spray booth came in very handy for putting all this spray paint on in cold, rainy weather. The trucks came out ok. I used scrap 2x4s which was fine but some of them were pretty beaten up. These will be great trucks for the kids to bang on and smash. And if they break and we have to toss them? Well hey, it was only about $2 worth of wood!

 

Simple Spray Booth

sprayboothIt’s really hard to put finishes on projects when it’s so cold and wet. If the fumes are flammable, I can’t let them dry in the garage because the pilot light from our furnace could ignite the fumes. I can’t get outside to spray things very often because of the rain. And whether I spray in the garage or outside, it’s usually well-below the recommended temperature for the finishes.

A couple weeks ago, I built a cheap and simple “spray booth” out of insulation foam. It’s a 2 foot square cube with one side that hinges open. I can set the pieces inside the box and spray them outside even if it’s raining. If I need a little heat, I can stick a space heater in there to warm everything up. I poked a couple holes in the top and ran a line between them inside the box so that I can hang parts and easily spray all the sides.

The only downside so far is that all the fumes exhaust out right in my face as I’m spraying. I have to wear a mask or I quickly get a headache. I bought some SonoTube and I think I might cut a hole in opposite sides so that I can have a fan blowing air through the box as I spray in from the open side. I could also blow warm air through the box that way too.

At well under $10 to make this, it has already more than paid for itself!

iVac Switch Review

ivacMy simple shop-vac dust collection system works very well for my small shop, but one annoyance is turning the vacuum on and off every time I turn a tool on and off. I finally bought an iVac switch and my only regret is not buying it sooner. You plug both your vacuum and your tool into this switch. Whenever your tool turns on, your vacuum will turn on. When you turn the tool off, the vacuum runs for another 3-5 seconds and then shuts off. It’s incredibly convenient.

It has two plugs so that you can source power from two different electrical circuits. This would be useful if the tool you are using takes around 15 amps. You’d blow the circuit if you turned on a shop vac too. I don’t use that feature yet but I like knowing that it exists.

There’s a switch on the front that lets you choose from Auto, On, or Off so you can still flip the vacuum on without a tool or stop it from coming on when you turn on a tool. The whole thing seems simple but it’s very well-designed.

Now I don’t have to reach under my bench to flip the vacuum on and off. I can hide it away and let this magic switch do the work.