Studio711.com – Ben Martens

Maker

Noel Sign

Tyla showed me a Christmas decoration on Etsy. It was a sign that said NOEL and was made out of reclaimed wood with a wreath for the O. Price? $50. I started adding up the cost of building it myself and I figured it was only the cost of the wreath since I already have plenty of scrap wood.

Tyla picked out a wreath and in just over an hour, I knocked out all the letters. The N is made from the fence at the house where Tyla grew up, the E is made from an old dining table that Tyla kept for a long time in hopes of refinishing (I ended up using it as oak lumber), and the L is from the palette that my band saw came on.

While we don’t get any real credit for the design, I’m really happy with how this turned out!

noelsign

Planes For Charity

During the month of October, the Makers Care group is encouraging makers to creating a plane of any kind to raise awareness (and money) for Make A Wish. Steve Ramsey posted some plans along with a video. For every plane we make, Steve Ramsey will donate $5 and it will be matched by MicroJig.

I used some scrap walnut and cherry to make two of the planes. It was my first attempt at making toys. They came out reasonably well but even this small project taught me a lot. My next project is probably going to be a much more complex toy for Elijah so I’m glad I had a smaller warm-up project to get some of the learnings out of the way.

You can find more information about this charity drive at makerscare.com. You still have time to build your own! It doesn’t have to be done with wood. ANY plane will qualify and you can look through the gallery to see some of the ideas people have come up with.

makerscareplanes

Front Step Bench

Before we re-landscaped the front yard, we had some hedges that came up to the front step. They weren’t beautiful, but they provided a convenient place for deliveries to be hidden. Now that we’ve removed the bushes, packages sit on our doorstep in plain view. We’ve never had a problem, but I’d prefer to have them at least partially obscured.

I decided to build a bench to fit on the step. Packages can be left under the bench, and, if necessary, I could even add a piece of wood to one end of the bench underneath the seat to really block the view from the street.

I used a SketchUp design file that is all over the web. (Unfortunately I don’t know who gets the original credit for this design. If you know, please contact me and I’ll give proper credit.) The design made heavy use of mortise and tenon joinery. While this type of joint is a staple in furniture woodworking, I’ve never done one myself. This seemed like a good learning project.

My first thought was to build this out of cedar since that handles outdoor weather well, but the cost quickly added up as I did the math. Instead, I ended up with hemlock fir (also purchased at Home Depot.) It’s pretty neat what you can do with standard dimensional lumber if you choose cleaner sections of the boards, trim off the rounded corners and run it through a jointer. This whole thing only cost about $30 in wood and I have some pretty big cutoffs left.

The four posts were wider than the 1 1/2″ I got from the boards so I used one full piece and then glued on half of another piece to get 2 1/4″. It actually looked reasonably good bare but after it was painted, the seam was completely invisible.

The mortise and tenon joints took me a very long time to complete as I fumbled my way through them. My joints got better and better as I went through the project though. I used a drill press to cut most of the mortises and then finished off the corners with a chisel. The next time I do it, I think I’ll try a router instead to get a cleaner mortise. I got the tenons with the bandsaw and that worked really well.

I hemmed and hawed a bit about how to finish the project. I like the look of natural wood, but it didn’t really fit the look of the front of the house. Plus I thought that the bench might weather unevenly since the outer half will be more exposed to sun and rain than the inner half. In the end, I put on a coat of Kilz primer and then used the same color as our exterior trim. I had an old can of that from the previous owners and the computers at Home Depot were able to match it perfectly! When I took the paint in to be matched, I explained that it was our house color. The lady replied “Do you live in an Army barracks?” I had never noticed it before, but instead of just being a dark gray color, it does actually have some green in it. Maybe I hadn’t noticed because it’s used for the house trim and it’s always against a light brown color.

I’m happy with the end result. It’s held together almost entirely without nails or screws. I did use a couple screws and nails just to ensure that the bottom seat supports don’t come lose over time. That part was at a weird angle and I didn’t want to screw up a mortise and tenon joint at that point in the project. The screw comes in from the back so nobody will see it.

bench1 bench2

(In the last photo, Elijah is trying to take a picture of me.)

Marker Box

My desk is closest to our team whiteboard at work so I end up with lots of dry erase markers, permanent markers, post-it notes, and erasers floating around. I headed out to the garage to play around with some scrap wood that I picked up from Crosscut in Seattle.

The box is REALLY simple. I screwed around trying to make some box joints but didn’t get them to look good enough for this so I dropped that and just did rabbet joints. I don’t know what kind of wood this is, but for the buck or two I paid for it, it turned into something useful. Simple, but useful. I finished it off with a few coats of spray lacquer.

markerbox

Washington Sign

Don took on a big project this summer and replaced his fence. I took some boards that were in reasonably good shape thinking I would make something out them. They sat in the garage for a while before I decided to glue them up into a panel. I trimmed off the rotten ends. Then I put them on my hold down jig and ran them through the table saw to trim off 1/4″ on one side. Once I had that nice straight edge, I could flip them over and run them against the fence to trim off 1/4″ on the other side. With those nice clean edges, I was able to put glue on them and clamp them together.

So then I had a big panel… and I still didn’t know what to do with it. I finally decided to cut out the shape of Washington state. I messed around with blowing up a picture and trying to print it out on a tiled series of paper sheets but gave up and just printed an 8.5×11. Then I drew a grid over the picture, drew a bigger grid in chalk on the panel and I drew the shape by hand.

I was going to use my shiny new bandsaw to cut out the shape, but once I realized how dirty all those boards were, I decided I didn’t really want to dull my brand new blade. So I did it with my little handheld jigsaw instead. I did use the bandsaw to trim a 1×4″ sheet of plywood to put on the back of the panel just to give it some extra strength in case those edge glue ups don’t hold over time.

It was a fun project because I didn’t know what I was going to end up with and I’m going to give it to Don and Nancy as a gift.

washingtonwoodsign

Guest Bed

In previous posts, I showed the design of our new guest room bed and the completed base. Yesterday I installed the headboard and called the project done! I’m really happy with how the headboard turned out. I just used plain old 2x4s, 1x6s and 1x4s, but I milled them a bit first and they came out looking nice. Cutting the rounded edges off the 2x4s made them much less recognizable and jointing the edges of the 1x6s made them fit very cleanly together. I loaded up the drawers and we still have room left to spare. As long as nobody crashes to the floor while sleeping on this, I’ll call it a success!

guestbed

Steve Ramsey gets credit for the design, but you can also download my slightly modified queen bed version. Thank you for the inspiration Steve!

UPDATE: In my original post, I forgot to mention how much this all cost. The wood for the headboard was $38 and the wood for the base was $190. Toss in a little paint and some other consumables and this was about $250 in parts. The drawers were a major cost in this build. Dropping those would probably save $80-100.

Queen Size Storage Bed

The bed project is partially complete! Last week I finished painting the bed and the drawer fronts, and over the weekend I assembled the drawer fronts and Tyla helped me move it in place. Overall, I’m pretty happy. By no means is it a fancy bed, but for a guest room, it works fine. It gives us a lot of storage.

My two main complaints are:
1) Plain white latex paint on the pine lends itself to a lot of scuff marks. I’m wondering if I should have tried to coat it with lacquer or poly.
2) The mattress fits well in the bed frame but since the mattress is round on the corners, you can see down into the bed frame. I think I might add some wood in those areas and paint it white to hide the view into the substructure.

But neither of those are super serious problems. I’ll build the headboard next.

Thank you Steve Ramsey for the initial inspiration for this design!

guestbed

Arcade Machine

Some of you have been hearing about this project for almost a year.  For a long time, I’ve wanted to build my own arcade machine.  Only this arcade machine is a little different than the one you’ll find at your local bowling alley.  This one will play over 2000 different arcade games and Nintendo games!

January 23, 2004
Swarna and I took a road trip out to Rheems, PA (about 100 miles away) to pick up an arcade cabinet from Discount Blowouts (www.discountblowouts.com).  I found them on EBay and found out that they had a couple old cabinets they would sell me for pretty cheap.  I rented a minivan and we were off.  The journey was quite an adventure.  We headed deep into farm country and finally found the buildings in the middle of a farm down a dirt road.  Unfortunately I didn’t get any pictures of the inside of the buildings, but here are a few of the outside and the surrounding area:

 

January 24, 2004
This morning, Tyler and I dragged the arcade machine into the house.  You want old school?  How’s this for old school… Asteroids!  It doesn’t get much better than that!

I spent the rest of the day cleaning 24 years of dirt off the machine.  I also went to Home Depot and picked up a new fluorescent light to put behind the marquee.

January 26, 2004
Tonight I mounted the power strip inside the coin door.  Now I can just open the coin door, reach inside, flip the switch, and everything turns on.  Right now “everything” is the marquee light, but eventually that switch will trigger the whole system.  In other news, the I-PAC keyboard emulator shipped from England today.

January 27, 2004
There’s not much I can do until my two packages arrive.  One is the keyboard encoder from England.  That made it to NYC today so maybe I’ll get it tomorrow or Thursday.  I was concerned about the joysticks and buttons I ordered from Happ Controls because I never received an order confirmation.  But thanks to their website (big ups to retailers that allow you to check the status of recent orders), I found that my package had been shipped and got the tracking number.  It’s currently in Addison, IL.  UPS predicts a Friday delivery for that one.  This means that I might be able to start hooking stuff up this weekend!

January 30, 2004
After two trips to Home Depot (and one to Top Dog), I ended up getting a lot done on the arcade machine.  The buttons, joysticks, and keyboard encoder all got delivered.  As you can see from the pictures, I did a lot of cleaning on the inside.  I left one of the big circuit boards up on the side wall just for looks.  While I was cleaning it out, I found a counter that read over 39,000.  I’m hoping to find some way to hook it up to the start button.   I also mounted a power strip just inside the coin door for easy access to the switch.

February 01, 2004
The project has hit a snag.  I was hoping to drill new holes in the metal control surface for the new buttons and joysticks.  Unfortunately,  I can’t get through that metal with any of the tools I have.  So I’m moving to plan B.  I’m going to make the control surface out of MDF.  I’ll paint it black and it should look almost as good.  It would have been nice to have the more retro look of the original control surface, but at least this will work and look good. 

February 03, 2004
After finishing my homework (like a good boy), I did a little more on the arcade machine.  I cut and sanded the MDF to fit into the area for the controls.  I got the screws in and countersunk them so they are flush.  Hopefully tomorrow I can get the holes drilled and get the first layer of paint on it.

February 04, 2004
I got the new control surface drilled with the holes for the buttons and joysticks.  I also got the first coat of paint on.  Tomorrow I’ll decide if I’m going to put another coat on or start putting on the polyurethane.  It’s hard to wait for all this stuff to dry when I know I could be done with a couple hours of wiring!  I was thinking that the house was going to smell really bad in the morning since I had the drying paint in the dining room, but Tyler’s dad (on the phone) suggested that we put it in the bathroom and leave the fan on.  Hopefully that will help out a little.

February 05, 2004
Not much going on tonight.  I just put another layer of black paint on.  I was debating whether or not it needed it, but now I’m glad I did it.  It looks much better.  Tomorrow I’ll start the polyurethane.

February 06, 2004
I put on two coats of polyurethane on today and it looked fairly nice.  After plans for the evening got cancelled, I decided to spend the night soldering.  Seemed like a logical alternative to me.  I started by putting all the buttons and joysticks on as well as the I-Pac keyboard encoder.

After that it was time to solder.  One lead from each microswitch goes to the corresponding hole on the I-Pac.  It really doesn’t matter where you put the wires on the I-Pac because it is reprogrammable, but if you follow the default markings it will work on MAME without reprogramming it.  I used CAT5 network cable for the wires and it ended up being pretty slick.  I used the leftover sheathing to clean up some of the cable mess and the color coding made it a little easier to keep the wires straight.  The last step was running two common ground wires through all the microswitches.  For that, I stripped long pieces of wire and then used CAT5 sheathing to keep it from shorting on other switches.  (See Dad?  I was paying attention after all.  Ha ha)  Here are is a shot of me in action and of the board all wired up.

Finally it was time for some testing to make sure it was all wired correctly.  I’m not sure what Cory is testing.  Below that, Tyler is pressing the buttons as they show up in notepad on the laptop.

Finally it was time to plug it all in and play some games!

It works great!  I have some finishing touches to perform such as installing the 80 watt subwoofer and probably reprogramming some keys to make it a little easier to navigate windows.  (You can also just pull the keyboard and mouse out through the coin door.)  One other thing that is a little annoying is that the left joystick records a right movement very easily.  I took it all apart and I know why it’s doing that, but I’m not sure how best to fix it yet.  Eventually I’ll probably try to throw a larger monitor in as well.  But for now, it works!  It’s done!  After a year of talk, I finally came through.  The only thing left that I need are people to come over and play it.  So what are you waiting for?  Stop by and check it out!