So you’re getting rid of some old hard drives, but you’re nervous about just throwing them in the trash. If the idea of creating a USB boot key doesn’t frighten you, then you should know about Darik’s Boot and Nuke. Simply deleting files or formatting the drive doesn’t actually erase the files on the drive. You need to overwrite every sector on the drive multiple times to really be sure.
Reboot the computer with either a CD or USB key inserted and you’ll boot into DBAN. From there you can choose a number of options for wiping the drive that range from writing 0’s one time across the whole drive to doing much deeper scrubs with multiple passes. I generally default to “DoD Short Wipe” which does three passes. That could take you a day or two with today’s larger drives, but it’s nice to know that nobody is going to find my old hard drive and pick any data off it.
I’ve also been known to physically take drives apart and smash the platters with a hammer (wear safety glasses!) That’s messy and technically it’s still possible to read data if the pieces are big enough, but it’s good enough if I’m in a hurry.
P.S. If you find yourself doing stuff like this often, consider picking up a hard drive dock. It’s a lot easier to swap drives in a dock then to physically open your computer. This is the one I’ve had for a while, but you might want to consider a USB3.0 model too.
A few weeks back, KenC mentioned Dan Carlin’s Hardcore History podcast and I listened to one (three hour) episode. It’s incredible! He takes a small slice of history and dives really deeply into it. The story he weaves is deep and really helps you understand all of the complicated forces that combined to shape the event.
For a while I thought that all three #1 teams were going to lose but Andy ended up winning pretty easily. He now stands along on top of the leaderboard and there are three people tied for second. Andy has 100 points more than his nearest competitor so I feel like he has a pretty good chance at making the playoffs. As for the rest of us, well it’s anybody’s guess.
After my pathetic low score this week, first is now a three way tie between Andy, Dad and myself with Andy claiming the top spot with his big point total. We’re 11 weeks into the season and 8th place is only 3 games behind first place. There are three games left in our regular season to decide the top four teams who will advance to the playoffs.
Extended Warranties
The break even price of a warranty is equal to the cost of replacing the item times the percentage chance that you’ll need to replace the item. So if the product costs $100 and there’s a 20% chance that it will break, then you should buy the warranty if it’s less than $20. The trick is that it’s usually impossible to define the odds that you’ll need a warranty. There’s still a way to prove that it’s a bad deal though.
Think about the company offering the warranty to you. If they charge everyone less than that breakeven point, they’re going to go out of business. They need to make a profit so the warranty is almost ALWAYS going to cost more than that breakeven point. Therefore it’s a bad financial deal for you to buy it.
There are, however, some cases where warranties and insurance are a good thing. Those cases are generally when you do not have enough financial reserve to cover the replacement cost if the item is destroyed. Think about your house or your car. If you have $30K lying around to buy a new car, then you could technically get buy without insurance (though they’ve made insurance a legal requirement since almost no one has this kind of reserve available.)
So when you’re standing at the register and they offer you the extended warranty, know that it’s a bad deal and if you can envision paying that much money again to replace the product, do not buy the warranty. You’ll come out ahead in the long run even if you do have to pay full replacementreplacmenet value every once in a while.